This is for those of you looking for that last few Hundies (.01 seconds).

 

The law of diminishing returns applies here: you will be working a LOT harder, spending a LOT more $$, and getting only a little more performance... but your racer wants the top step on the podium, right? And you are willing to pay the money (and do the work) to help them get there... RIGHT?!     Price Warning: it is possible to spend more than $50/run on prep like this- if you aren't careful with the wax you use. And for all that, if you don't choose the right wax (or prep the skis properly first), the skis might be slower than the $5 prep listed above. Money won't buy speed unless you are smarter than your base brush.

 

So here we go: As always, scrape and brush the skis completely. Double check the edges. Consider if you may need to dull them. Then apply your chosen elixer carefully, following the manufacturers directions.  After the first run, repeat. That wasn't so hard was it? Do you still have money left for lunch?!

Ok, a little more specific information for those of you NOT dissuaded or insulted by my instructions so far. FLURO wax does not like to attach itself to much. That is why it is fast. But this makes it hard to put on the ski. You should have waxed the ski with the appropriate low or high concentration Fluro wax FIRST, so the wax will adhere better.

My wax of choice is powdered fluro. I shake it lightly onto the ski, distribute it with a small horsehair brush, then Ray's Way the wax into the ski.

Here is the order of things to do:

1.) Wax with a fluro/hydrocarbon blend.

2.) Scrape, brush and polish completely.

3.) Rub, shake, or spray the fluro onto the ski. Use a horsehair brush (lightly) if applying powder to distribute the wax.

4.) Cork or RAY'S WAY the wax into the base. Work slowly and gently at first, then hard and fast.

5.) Scrape LIGHTLY- to remove any excess wax

6.) Brush LIGHTLY with a horsehair brush to get the wax out of the structure.

VII.) Polish with a cloth.

 NOW you are ready!!

Full disclosure: I do some wax testing for Racewax.com I really like their products and have agreed to help prove them and improve them.

Here are some links to videos and writings about tuning. I have read and/or watched all of them, and there is lots of useful information. I will write and post a simple instruction set to help those who may be overwhelmed. This is for people who can’t get enough:

 

Toko: http://www.tokous.com/AlpineMain.htm

Swix: http://www.swixschool.com/

Homenkol: http://www.holmenkol.us/wax_advisor.php

Dominator: http://www.dominatorwax.com/techedu.html

Race Wax: http://www.racewax.com/c=nUCmQI9Euo2NwLXXrzmMJXIAA/category/tuning-tips/

Tognar: http://www.tognar.com/how-to-tune-wax-repair-ski-snowboard-database/

Ray’s Way: http://alpineskituning.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=38&Itemid=64

Race werks: http://race-werks.com/tips.php  

Tuning with stones is both the low-end entry into ski tuning (stones don't tend to do too much damage) and the top end of edge tuning (cutting/polishing with hand or rotary stones).
But just as my last statement is vague and unclear, the World of Stones is huge, confusing and there are few charts or directions to guide you. Since I already own (at least 1 example of) most all of the Ski Stones currently available, I will try to provide some navigation.

The simple guide (more complex to follow): You should have in your basic tuning kit 1 coarse diamond stone (70 or 100 mm), 1 fine diamond stone (either size), and 1 gummi stone (fine is more useful than coarse). The coarse diamond stone is useful for removing rock damage and for SLIGHT edge sharpening. The fine diamond is great for smoothing the edges after filing, and the gummi is used to remove burrs after sharpening, and for removing light rust.

(Foreground: Moonstones. Background: DMT)

Use Edge Polishing Solution (like SVST's Secret Sauce) when working with the diamonds, but use the gummi dry. Use the solution and a brass brush to keep the diamonds clean. Expect about 1 season of life for a racer skiing 50+ days/year.

The more complex guide: There are SO MANY stones/stone kits available, and at least as many ways to use them. I tune around 200 pairs/year and I am always experimenting... but I am also continually looking to simplify and standardize my process. The more consistent the tune, the more consistently the skis will perform. With consistent skis, a skier can improve more quickly. With a poor tune, a skier (racer) will have to compensate for the tune, and this can keep them from skiing their best. Here is some of what I have learned:

There are 5 main families of stones: Arkansas, Ceramic, Diamond, Gummi and Rotary.

(Foreground: Arkansas and Gummi, Background: Ceramic, also tuning stick)

Arkansas Stones: These are natural stones, they are quite hard, quite smooth, and are used mostly as a very late-stage edge treatment to both smooth the edge and to condition (harden) it. These are useful on speed skis when chasing the last .001 second, and for the ultimate ski feel. The subtlety of the improvement provided by this treatment, along with the amount of time  required to do it, means you should reserve such use for championship speed events... and/or long, lonely nights in the shop- preferably with good tunes. Grits range from 600-1500+ They will break if you drop them. Use them wet (water or solution), and clean them with Wax Remover.

Ceramic Stones/kits: These are formed stones using aluminum oxide and/or other abrasives. Each brand works a little differently, each has a little different "feel" to it. If you want to use ceramic stones, buy a kit from one supplier (SVST and Ski Visions are both excellent) and use them in a progression. Use wet, and clean with wax remover. Grits range from 150-750. ***Note*** THESE STONE WEAR and MUST be maintained to be useful. Every other tune, the stone must be "dressed" using a large diamond stone in running water. If you don't dress them (or replace them) often, they will develop ruts on the surface and mess up your edge geometry. Ceramic stones can be a bit expensive to use. If not re-dressed, they may only last 1-3 tunes- especially the coarser stones.

(Stones and files are fragile and expensive. individually wrap for travel)

Diamond Stones/kits: These are aluminum or plastic "stones" with industrial diamonds (diamond dust) attached with glue. These are the most versatile, useful, and easiest to use stones. There are several brands available, I use mostly DMT and Moonstones. Some say the more expensive stones last longer/work better... but I can't seem to prove that no matter how hard I try. In my experience, one lasts about as long as the other. I like the cheap ones because I can afford to replace them more frequently. Use these wet, clean with polishing solution and a brush OR with wax remover and a paper towel. Always dry your stones  before putting them away. Grits available range from 80-1500. Expect to consume 1-2 stones of each grade you use frequently every season.

Diamond/Ceramic comparison: ceramic stones are "smoother," even if the rated grits are the same. Ceramic stones provide the best edge finish. Diamond stones are easier to use, more versatile, and cheaper over time. Diamond stones are less likely to get damaged by abuse also.

Gummi Stones: The fine gummis are useful as the final edge finishing stage to polish away the final bit of burr that remains after tuning. The coarse stones work great to remove light rust before edge work begins.

Rotary Stones: These are the newest development in the home-tuner's kit, and for most people, they are not a good investment. Even the top rotary stone (used in shops and by top techs) cannot finish the edge with the same smoothness of a hand stone. On injected ice however, the additional burr created by the rotary stone is an advantage as it grips better. The rough edge created by a rotary stone does not glide as fast as a hand-polished edge, especially on softer snow. The cost of these fancy tools range from $250 to $3500.

Look for my YouTube videos to show you how to use all these stones.

If you check my tool kits, you will always find Sharpie marking pens. Why? Because there are several markings that can make a big difference.

1.) Name: this one is obvious... but sometimes kids pickup similar looking skis. My son tried to step into another racer's skis one day- but fortunately the skis had the other kid's name on them.

2.) L/H and R/H. Why mark left and right? Because the boots wear and the binding fit may be different. Also, the edges do not wear evenly and by determining which ski is which (rather than let chance decide), you can decide which is the better edge to be used as the inside edge. There are many more reasons, write me if you need to know more.

3.)Tuning and binding settings. Skis may get handed to a shop (or friend) to work on. If the usual settings are clearly marked on the skis, it reduces confusion and improves quality.

4.) Day Counter: simple hash marks for each day used. I started doing this many years ago, and I find it very useful for tracking wear and predicting performance. Skis only last so long, and when you track useage, you can figure out how long they last for you (or your racer).

5.) Blackening Edges: There are purposes for blackened edges:confirming a bevel angle, testing a new tool, to help a tuner develop "touch" etc. I will add pictures to better illustrate.

Q: I have been stoning my edges for a while now, but they aren’t sharp enough anymore.  Is there a way I can sharpen my edges better than using a stone?

A: I am SO glad you asked that! Throughout the season, ski edges are getting worn away and new material must be exposed. Stones are designed to primarily polish metal, while files are designed to cut metal away. But there are LOTS of files out there such as:

Panzar files- designed to cut a LOT of material at once. Be extra careful with these. Bastard files- designed to cut a lot of material, but not like a panzer. Mill files- available in 1^st cut (medium), 2^nd cut (fine) and finishing (extra fine). Mill files are the primary ski file to use.

 File Quality and hardness matter a lot too. The top files are Carbide Steel and Stainless Steel, followed by Chromed Steel and Hardened Steel. A file of less than 65 Rockwell hardness is not suitable for race-ski edges. Modern ski edges are so hard that they will destroy such a file in only a few minutes.  Carbide files are SO hard that they are brittle and will break if dropped, and can “chatter” down the ski edges in some conditions. Carbide files also cost around 10-15 times as much as a chromed file, making them not a practical choice for most tuners.  Stainless files are great, but are expensive and hard to find.

I advise owning 3 chromed files: a bastard file (8-10 inch), a medium mill file (4-6 inch) and a fine mill (4-6 inch).  90+ % of ski work can be done with these 3, and they should last 1-2 seasons for most users.

Pictured below are:

Carbide

Stainless (medium)

Chrome Mill (medium),

Chrome Mill (fine)

Chrome Bastard

Panzar (large and small)

Locally, Sturtevant's and World Cup Skier Services have an excellent selection, as does Tognar:  http://www.tognar.com/files-base-tape-ski-edge-tuning/

Remember to brush files clean and they will last a long time.

Ski Bench, Vise, and Basic Tool Kit

Since you may just be starting out, let me show you what you need in order to do an average tune.

Bench, with vises: This bench I made from a Home Depot Sawhorse Kit ($18), some 2x6 scrap wood, and 7 screws.  It took 15-20 minutes to make, and cost less than $20. It is pretty cost effective. The Vises I bought used for $15, although a similar new set would cost $115 or so.

Tool Kit: The box I bought at Home Depot for less than $10.

Here is what is in the kit:

Side edge guide (3 degree from Beast), bottom edge guide (Ski Man), Medium flat file (Swix), Coarse and Fine diamond stone (DMT), file/stone cleaning brush (racewax.com),  gummi stone (racewax.com), brake retainers (SKS), cutting solution (Artechski.com), plastic scraper (tognar.com), brass and nylon brushes (Tognar.com), Wax Iron, very warm wax (for cleaning) and low-fluro universal wax (training/racing- all from Swix), medium scotch brite and 100 grit sandpaper (home depot), shop rag and polishing cloth (Costco). Not pictured but also in kit: P-tex sticks, matches, a metal scraper,  and a true-bar. I also include Ski Straps here because it is such a shame to have a well-tuned ski, then destroy the ski by allowing them to rub on each other.

I can show you many other boxes and benches (I have 3 more of each), but this one does the basics, without frills, but very professionally. I made this one for my son.

Happy Tuning!

If you don’t know me, I am a CMAC coach and gear geek. I have tuned several thousand pairs of skis, and can feel very minute differences between tuning settings on snow. So let’s get going!

Pre-Season Setup:

Q: “All our new gear is here- NOW what do I do with it?”

A: Excellent question! You can bring it to your favorite Trusted Tuner (World Cup Skier Service and Sturtevant’s come quickly to mind). Or if you are more bold, pickier, a cheapskate or some combination of those three, you can follow my New Ski Prep!

Tools required: The basics (Bench, Vise, Brake Retainers, Files, Stones, Plastic Scraper, Waxing Iron, Wax, File Guides) + Fibertex (Scotch Brite), Sandpaper, Sanding Block, Sharpie Marking Pen, Sidewall Puller, and True-Bar.

1.) Scrape any wax off of the bases and brush the skis out completely. The bases must be free of surface wax.

2.) Check the bases with a true-bar. Set a light on the tail of the ski pointing towards the tip so that the true bar will make an excellent shadow. If the base is flat, only stripes of light from the structure will show as you drag the bar along the base. Low spots will be bright, high spots dark.

3.) Evaluate the results from above.

A.) If the bases are quite flat, move on to #4.

B.) If the bases are NEARLY flat, the high spots can be brought down in a reasonable time with a coarse file, sandpaper, and a scraper (or a base-flattening tool… if you have one). If you need more detail, ask!

C.) If the bases are quite uneven, it is best to have a Trusted Tuning Shop grind them flat before moving on any further. Once flat, move to #4.

4.) Set the initial base bevel. I generally set the bevel at ½ of the final setting.

IE: initial setting= .5 degree, final setting = 1 degree. This is to keep the scrapers from riding on the micro-burrs on the edge. It simply makes the work easier. Start by blackening the edges with a sharpie. Then make 1 or 2 passes on each edge with a sharp file  in a guide. Two passes should be enough.

5.) Pull the sidewall with a “sidewall puller.” Clever name eh? I try to only cut away the minimum material needed to file the ski. I can always cut more later,  but adding material is impossible.

6.) Blacken the edge, then grab a coarse, very sharp file and your side edge guide. The ski should be on edge in the vise, with the base away from you. Always work from tip to tail if at all possible. With a tanged file, the tang should be pointing away from the direction of motion. So working from tip to tail, the tang would be towards the tip. Make long, overlapping strokes and smoothly cut the side edge until all the black has been removed. You should be quite close to your desired bevel now. Repeat on the other 3 edges, then smooth/polish all four with a diamond stone in the guide.

7.) Begin Waxing/smoothing/conditioning of the bases. First, warm scrape (iron on wax, heat well, then scrape while still liquid) repeatedly until the wax coming off is the EXACT color of the wax going on. This process will remove most impurities from the bases.

8.) Begin wax-cycling the skis. Wax the skis (with PLENTY of wax), iron in well (5-10 minutes a ski), allow to cool 45 minutes to 1 day, then scrape and brush completely. Repeat 5-10 times, and hot-box the skis with a very warm (soft) wax if possible.

9.) Final prep the ski: Scrape, brush, and set the final bevel.

10.) Go Skiing!!